Civilization101Blueprint

Cold frame and manure hotbed

A glazed box that starts seedlings weeks early, and the same box over a pit of rotting manure that warms the soil from below.

Build Tier 3 · Medieval to early modern Food Easy to build, needs looking at every day 1–2 days, then several days for the manure's first heat to pass Crew 1–2

Home: Protected growing, Level 3 · Mill, level 1 of 3 in its track. Serves 1 step.

Every build on this site has hazards that injure or kill — quicklime, carbon monoxide, molten metal, collapsing ground. Read the safety notice before starting, and read this build's own failure modes below.

A cold frame against the sunny wall of a mountain hut in the Alps: a boarded box with a glazed light, propped open for the day. Richterhütte Frühbeet 2017 · 2017-08-28 09:57:34 · Whgler · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons ↗

What it is and why this shape

Most annual transplants need 30–40 days from seed (University of Nebraska), and a cold frame lets them start that long before the last frost. Over a pit of fresh manure it becomes a hotbed: the heap heats as it rots and warms the soil above it, as gardeners did in Gilbert White's day in the 18th century. Everything here is boards, glass and a thermometer; the numbers are the University of Nebraska's.

Manure hotbed, in section Fig 1
Earth / subsoilTimberLoose fill / grainGlassFire / hot zone
A pit 60 cm deep: 10 cm of gravel, 20–30 cm of fresh manure and straw, 7.5–10 cm of soil. The frame stands 20 cm high at the front and 35 cm at the back, 1.8 m apart. Sow when the soil has fallen to 24 °C.
Cold frame for two lights, in plan Fig 2
TimberGlassVoid / air
A 1.8 × 1.8 m frame with a post in each corner and a bar across the middle, under two lights of 0.9 × 1.8 m.

Keyed parts

1FrameRot-resistant boards, 25–50 mm, never preservative-treated; 20 cm high at the front, 35 cm at the back, sunk 5–15 cm.
2LightsTwo glazed sashes, 0.9 × 1.8 m, sloping 1 in 12 toward the sun.
3PropA notched stick or an opener that holds each light open at a set gap.
4Gravel10 cm of coarse gravel at the bottom of the pit, for drainage and air.
5Manure and straw20–30 cm of fresh horse manure with 5–10 % straw, trodden firm and wetted.
6Soil7.5–10 cm of good, weed-free soil on the manure.
7Earth bankSoil banked against the outside of the frame, sloping away for drainage.
8Soil thermometerPushed into the soil; sow when it has fallen to 24 °C.
9Corner posts5 × 10 cm, one in each corner, holding the boards.
10Middle barA bar across the middle of the frame on which the two lights meet.

Specifications

Size1.8 × 1.8 m0.9 × 1.8 m at the smallest; lengths in multiples of 0.9 m.
Slope1 in 1220 cm high at the front, 35 cm at the back, toward the sun.
Lights2 × 0.9 × 1.8 mGlass, or twin-layer film, acrylic or fibreglass.
Pit60 cm deepGravel 10 cm, manure 20–30 cm, soil 7.5–10 cm.
Sow at24 °CSoil temperature, falling, after the manure's first heat.
Seedlings16–18 °C / 18–24 °CAir at plant height, cool-season / warm-season crops.

Bill of materials

MaterialQuantityNotes and substitutes
Boards, cedar or other rot-resistant wood, untreatedabout 14 m25–50 × 200 mm. Front 30 cm tall (20 above ground), back 45 cm (35 above), the sides tapering between; each with 10 cm in the ground.
Corner posts, 5 × 10 cm4 × 60 cmPlus one bar 1.8 m long across the middle.
Glazed lights, 0.9 × 1.8 m2Glass in a wooden frame, or a rigid clear sheet.
Coarse gravel0.3 m³10 cm over the 3.2 m² pit.
Fresh horse manure, with 5–10 % straw0.6–1.0 m³20–30 cm over 3.2 m²; free of weed seed.
Good soil, weed-free0.3 m³7.5–10 cm.
Soil thermometer1Reading at least 0–60 °C.
Insect mesh, sacking or straw mats3.2 m² eachMesh over the frame when the lights are open; mats over the lights on frosty nights.

Tools: Spade · Saw · Hammer and nails, or screws and a driver · Spirit level and a straight board · Tape measure · Watering can with lukewarm water

Construction

Choose the place

Full sun all winter, no shade at noon on the shortest day, shelter from the wind, water nearby, and ground that drains. Face the front toward the equator. A wall or hedge behind the frame shelters it; keep it out from under eaves, where snow and icicles fall.

Dig the pit

Mark 1.8 × 1.8 m and dig 60 cm deep for a hotbed; for a cold frame alone, 15–40 cm is enough (University of Nebraska). Keep the topsoil aside, weed-free, for the top layer.

Build the frame

Nail the boards to the corner posts: 35 cm above ground at the back, 20 cm at the front, with 5–15 cm more in the ground, so the top slopes 1 in 12 toward the sun. Fit the middle bar across the top. Set the frame over the pit, check the top with a level along the slope, and bank soil against the outside.

Fill the hotbed

Spread 10 cm of coarse gravel. Mix fresh horse manure with 5–10 % straw, spread it 20–30 cm deep, tread it firm and wet it with lukewarm water. Cover it with 7.5–10 cm of soil. Put the lights on.

Wait for the first heat to pass

The manure heats far past what seed will stand. Push the thermometer into the soil and read it every day. Sow when it has fallen to 24 °C and is still falling slowly.

Sow and run it

Sow in the soil or in pots set on it. Seeds germinate best at 21–24 °C; then hold the air at plant height at 16–18 °C for cool-season crops and 18–24 °C for warm-season ones. Prop the lights open on every sunny day, close them in mid-afternoon, and cover them with mats on frosty nights. Water sparingly and feed little nitrogen.

Harden off

In the last week or two before planting out, take the lights off for more of each day, then leave them off at night too. Most annuals are ready 30–40 days after sowing.

Empty and store

When the bed has cooled and the crop is out, dig out the spent manure for the compost heap. Store the lights flat and dry; replace cracked glass before next season.

Tolerances that matter

DimensionTargetWhy it matters
Slope of the lights1 in 12, toward the sunRain runs off, and the low winter sun meets the glass.
Gaps in the framenone that show daylightEvery gap leaks heat and lets mice in.
Soil at sowing24 °C or below, fallingSeed dies in the manure's first heat.
Air at plant height16–18 °C cool-season, 18–24 °C warm-seasonWarmer and wetter makes weak, leggy seedlings and disease.

How this fails

Lights left shut on a sunny morning. The frame heats in minutes of full sun and the seedlings cook. Open them before you leave, every sunny day.
Sowing into the first heat. Seed dies in soil hotter than it can stand. Trust the thermometer, not the calendar.
Treated boards, which injure plants, or manure and straw full of weed seed, which fills the bed with weeds (University of Nebraska).
Too much water and nitrogen under warm glass: soft, leggy seedlings and disease.
A frame in shade or in a frost pocket, which never warms.

How you know it worked

VerificationSeed sown in the hotbed germinates within its usual time, the air in the frame stays in the crop's range through a sunny day and a frosty night, and the transplants go out on the date of the last frost.

Scaling and variants

More frames: a row in multiples of 0.9 m, lights side by side. An electric hotbed needs no manure: about 6.5 m of heating cable per m² of bed (2 ft per ft²), looped 15–20 cm apart on 10 cm of sand, on a thermostat, earthed and never spliced (University of Nebraska); that needs electricity. A glasshouse against a sunny wall is the next size up: cold frames, hotbeds and the glasshouse.

The same thing, built

Hotbeds as Gilbert White used them for melons at Selborne: wooden frames set on a bed of fresh horse manure and straw, which heats the soil above it as it rots. Hot beds used by Gilbert White, Selborne · 2007-09-02 · Dr Neil Clifton · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons ↗
A cold frame: a boarded box with a glazed lid, propped open on a stick to let heat out on a sunny day. Cold frame · 2006-02-07 · Moormand at English Wikipedia · Public domain · Commons ↗