Civilization101Blueprint

Family drip kit, 500 m²

A covered tank 1–1.5 m up, a valve, a 120-mesh filter, a 25 mm main and 8 mm dripper lines: drip irrigation for a family plot by gravity, with no pump and no power.

Build Tier 5 · Second industrial revolution Food Easy to install; the work is in scheduling the water and keeping the lines clean A day to set up the stand and tank and lay the lines Crew 1–2

Home: Crops and soil, Level 5 · Current, level 5 of 7 in its track. Serves 1 step.

Every build on this site has hazards that injure or kill — quicklime, carbon monoxide, molten metal, collapsing ground. Read the safety notice before starting, and read this build's own failure modes below.

Chinese cabbage under drip irrigation (2023): a drip line runs along each row, wetting the soil at the plants and leaving the paths dry. Chinakohl Bestand mit Tropfbewässerung, Josef Schlaghecken · 2023-09-14 14:11:04 · Schlaghecken Josef · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons ↗

What it is and why this shape

Drip puts 80–90 % of the water where the roots are, against 40–50 % for flooding from earth canals (drip and sprinkler irrigation). FAO's handbook describes a kit that brings it to a family plot without a pump: a tank raised 1–1.5 m, a valve and a filter, and drip lines working at 0.1–0.2 bar; the piping for 500 m² cost about US$100–120 in 2007 (FAO, Handbook on Pressurized Irrigation Techniques, chapter 15). The weak points are the ones FAO names: without training and maintenance the lines clog and the kit lasts one or two seasons, so the filter, flushing and the schedule below are part of the build.

Tank and head, in elevation Fig 1
Earth / subsoilTimberMetalWater
A covered drum on a braced stand 1.0–1.5 m up, a drain tap at its foot and the outlet 5 cm above its bottom; then the valve, a 120-mesh filter, the 25 mm main and an 8 mm dripper line with a dripper every 30 cm (FAO, chapter 15). Not to scale along the ground.
The 500 m² plot, in plan Fig 2
MetalGravel / aggregateWaterVoid / air
FAO's example: a 25 × 20 m plot, the main across the middle along the 20 m side, dripper lines 12 m long each side, one per row. Tomatoes in rows 1.5 m apart take 26 lines; closer rows take up to about 500 m of dripper line. A tensiometer pair in one row tells you when to irrigate.

Keyed parts

1Tank200–3,000 L: a plastic barrel, an iron drum or a built tank, always covered against dirt, light and algae.
2StandHolds the full tank with its base 1–1.5 m above the ground; braced, on firm footings.
3Drain tapAt the bottom of the tank, to flush out the sediment often.
4Tank outlet1 inch threaded, fixed at least 5 cm above the bottom so sediment stays in the tank.
5Shut-off valve1 inch plastic gate or ball valve, connected straight to the outlet.
6Screen filter1 inch plastic line filter, screen or disc, 120 mesh, after the valve.
7Main pipe25 mm black PE, PN 2.5, along the middle of the plot, with quick-release compression fittings.
8Start connectors8 mm barbed plastic connectors pushed into the main at the row spacing; blind plugs close spare holes.
9Dripper lines8 mm PE with built-in labyrinth drippers every 30 cm, 0.5–0.7 L/h at 1 m of head; no longer than 12–15 m.
10Tensiometer pairAt 30 % and 60 % of the root depth beside the plants in one row: irrigate when the shallow one reads 18–25 centibars.

Specifications

Area500 m², 20 × 25 mFAO's standard kit; 250–1,000 m² depending on the crop spacing.
Head1–1.5 m of water, 0.1–0.2 barRaise the tank higher to make up friction in a long main.
Flowabout 1.1 m³/h at 1.5 m headAbout 1,600 drippers at 0.65 L/h with 500 m of line.
Dripper lines8 mm, 12–15 m; or 12 mm, 25–30 mMaximum lengths at 1 m of head on level ground.
Drippersevery 30 cm0.5–0.7 L/h at 1 m of head, 0.65–0.95 L/h at 2 m.
Filter120 meshDrippers need 80–160 mesh (200–100 µm).
Groundslope under 0.5 %Medium or fine soil taking in under 20 mm an hour; not very light sand.
WaterpH 6.5–8.4, 500–2,000 mg/L dissolved saltsUnder 0.7 mg/L boron and 1.5 dS/m for strawberries and beans.

Bill of materials

MaterialQuantityNotes and substitutes
Tank, 200–3,000 L, with lid1A bigger tank needs fewer fillings: 2,750 L a day from a 200 L drum is about 14 fillings.
Timber or block stand for the full tank1A full 200 L drum weighs over 200 kg.
Drain tap and 1 inch tank outlet1 eachOutlet at least 5 cm above the bottom.
Plastic shut-off valve, 1 inch1Gate or ball.
Plastic screen or disc filter, 1 inch, 120 mesh1Line filter, with a spare screen.
Black PE pipe 25 mm, PN 2.545 mMain; FAO's kit list.
Quick-release elbows, 25 mm × 1 inch and 25 mm1 eachTank connection and the turn into the plot.
Barbed start connectors, 8 mm45One per dripper line, with spares.
Blind start connectors, 8 mm10To plug wrong or spare holes.
PE dripper line, 8 mm, drippers every 30 cmup to 500 mIntegrated drippers with wide passages and their own filter.
PTFE thread tape1 rollOn every threaded joint.
Tensiometers2One shallow, one deep.

Tools: Hole punch for the start connectors · Knife or pipe cutter · Spirit level or water level · Tape measure and string line · Bucket and watch for the catch test · Measuring jug or graduated cylinder

Construction

Choose the plot and the water

Level ground, or an even slope under 0.5 %, of medium or fine soil; FAO advises against very light sandy soil. Rows 12–24 m long. Have the water tested: pH 6.5–8.4, dissolved salts 500–2,000 mg/L; for strawberries and beans, boron under 0.7 mg/L and salinity under 1.5 dS/m. Any source that can refill the tank regularly will do: a well, a pond, a ditch.

Build the stand and set the tank

Set the tank beside the plot at the middle of the main, or in the middle of the plot, with its base 1–1.5 m above the ground on a braced stand strong enough for the full tank. Fit the drain tap at the bottom and the outlet at least 5 cm above it. Put the lid on and keep it on.

Fit the head

Screw the valve onto the outlet and the 120-mesh filter after it, with PTFE tape on every thread so nothing leaks. Connect the 25 mm main through the elbow and run it straight across the middle of the plot along the 20 m side.

Punch in the start connectors, then flush the main

Mark the rows on the main at the crop's spacing — 1.5 m for trellised tomatoes, closer for others — and push in a start connector at each, on both sides. Plug any wrong hole with a blind connector. Fill the tank, open the valve and flush the main with its end open until the water runs clear (FAO).

Lay and flush the dripper lines

Push a dripper line onto each start connector and lay it along the row, no longer than 12–15 m for 8 mm line. Open the valve and flush the lines with their ends open, then close each end by folding it back and tying it, or with an end plug.

Test the evenness

Run the kit with a full tank. Set a cup under 10 drippers from the near to the far end of the longest line for 5 minutes, measure each, and compare with the average: all within 10 % passes. A low far end means the line is too long or the head too low; scattered low drippers mean blockage (drip irrigation).

Irrigate to the plants

Water every 1–3 days: about 0.5–1 L per plant a day at first, 1–2 L as the crop sets, 3–6 L at full growth, up to 5–7 L for big crops such as watermelons late in the season; daily at the peak, and 10–20 % less at harvest (FAO). Read the tensiometers and start when the shallow one reads 18–25 centibars. A 200 L drum feeding 2,750 L a day to 500 m² runs about 2.5 hours and needs refilling about 14 times, so a bigger tank saves labour.

Keep it clean

Open the drain tap and flush out the tank's sediment often. Clean the filter screen whenever the flow drops. Flush the lines regularly and treat slime, scale and algae as drip irrigation describes. Soluble fertilizer can be dissolved in the tank (FAO).

Tolerances that matter

DimensionTargetWhy it matters
Tank base1–1.5 m above the groundLower, and the far drippers get too little pressure; the kit works only by height.
Outletat least 5 cm above the tank bottomKeeps the settled sediment out of the filter.
Dripper line lengthno more than 12–15 m (8 mm) at 1 m of headLonger lines lose too much pressure to friction and the far plants go short.
Ground slopeunder 0.5 %At such low pressure, a slope makes the downhill drippers run faster than the uphill ones.
Evennessevery dripper within 10 % of the averageOtherwise some plants are drowned to keep others alive.

How this fails

A tank set too low, or a main run too far: the pressure is too weak for the last drippers.
An open tank: dirt and algae reach the filter and the drippers.
A filter never cleaned: the flow falls week by week until the crop wilts.
Leaking threaded joints without PTFE tape: water and pressure lost before the plot.
Lines too long or laid uphill: the far end dries.
Watering by the clock, not by the plants and the tensiometers: too little at the peak, too much at the start.
No maintenance: FAO reports kits lasting only one or two seasons where farmers were not trained to keep the lines clean.

How you know it worked

VerificationWith a full tank, the catch test puts every dripper within 10 % of the average, the wetted strip along each row is continuous, the joints do not leak, and the tensiometers stay between 10 and 25 centibars through the season.

Scaling and variants

1,000 m²: two kits side by side, each with its own tank (FAO). A group of farmers sharing one well can share a small pump to fill a larger tank for each. Longer rows take 12 mm dripper line, up to 25–30 m at 1 m of head. More head, from a tank set higher, makes up for a long main; the drippers give 0.65–0.95 L/h at 2 m.

The same thing, built

A garden drip system close up: the main pipe with push-fit connectors, and a dripper line branching off it into the bed. Drip irrigation system installed in a garden for efficient water management during summer · 2022-06-01 17:54:55 · Shixart1985 · CC BY 2.0 · Commons ↗
The head of a drip system in Kerala, India (2022): PVC pipe with valves feeds the drip laterals laid along the crop rows. Drip irrigation in Kerala · 2022-09-01 16:42:28 · Vis M · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons ↗