Civilization101Blueprint

Woodworking and the first machines

Make things accurately from wood, including the machines that will later work metal.

Tier 1 · Neolithic Tools t1-woodwork Blocked by prerequisites
A pole lathe: springy pole, cord, treadle. The first machine that shapes a part rather than a tool. PoleLatheDemoLHist · 2011-07-17 · Simon Speed · CC0 · Commons ↗

Everything for this step

Field guide
Wood and the forest → 5 sections Engineering → 7 sections
Reference sheets
None.
Sciences it rests on
Engineering
Track
Woodworking, level 1 of 1

Why this matters

Wood is the material you have most of and can work with the least. Every early machine — lathe, loom, wheel, mill, press, bellows — is a wooden machine first. The pole lathe in particular is the direct ancestor of every machine tool in tier 3.

The shape of it

  1. Season your timber. Roughly a year per 25 mm of thickness, stacked with spacers, out of rain and sun. Green wood moves as it dries and destroys the joint.
  2. Learn the joints: mortise and tenon, dovetail, lap, scarf. Pegged joints hold without metal, which you do not have yet.
  3. Split rather than saw where you can. Riven wood follows the grain and is much stronger than sawn, and a froe and mallet cost almost nothing.
  4. Build a shaving horse and a pole lathe. A pole lathe is a springy sapling, a cord and a treadle — it turns round work in wood and is the first machine most people should build.
  5. Make the things that unlock other steps: wheels, axles, gears, screw threads in wood, presses, and the frames for a loom and a bellows.
  6. Cut wooden gears with a dividing plate — a disc with equally spaced holes. This is your first encounter with the precision problem, and the accuracy of that plate limits every machine you build from it.
  7. Coppice for a renewable supply: many species regrow from a cut stump on a cycle of years, giving straight poles forever from the same ground.

Doing it, step by step

The summary above says what has to happen. This says how, with the numbers that decide whether it works.

1 · Season timber, and know when it is ready by weighing

Air-drying takes roughly a year per 25 mm of thickness. Stack boards on level bearers off the ground, with stickers — spacers about 20–25 mm thick — every 40–60 cm, lined up vertically so boards do not bow. Roof the stack, leave the sides open to wind, and seal the end grain with wax, paint or pitch, or the ends split.

Weigh a sample board weekly. It is as dry as the air will make it when the weight stops falling. Green wood shrinks across its width as it dries — far more across than along — and destroys any tight joint made from it.

✓ Check: A sample board's weight has not changed for three consecutive weekly weighings before the stack is used for joinery.

2 · Rive where you can — split wood follows the grain

Riven wood follows the fibres, so it has no grain running out across the piece, and it is far stronger than sawn wood of the same size — which is why chair legs, spokes, tool handles and ladder rungs were riven.

Choose straight-grained, knot-free logs: oak, ash, chestnut and hazel rive well. Start the split with an axe or wedges on the end, then work down the length with a froe and mallet, levering to steer the split toward the thicker side if it runs off. Split radially — in halves, quarters, eighths — for stable pieces.

✓ Check: Riven blanks have fibres running unbroken end to end, visible along the surface, with no grain running out at the sides.

3 · Cut pegged mortise-and-tenon joints and drawbore them

Without metal fastenings, joints hold by geometry and pegs. The core joint is the mortise and tenon: a tenon about a third of the thickness of the stock, fitting its mortise snugly by hand pressure.

Drawbore it: drill the peg hole through the mortise cheeks, assemble, mark the hole's centre on the tenon, take the joint apart, and drill the tenon hole 2–3 mm closer to the shoulder. Driving a tapered, riven peg through the offset holes pulls the joint tight permanently, and it stays tight as the wood moves. Pegs: riven, straight-grained, dry hardwood.

✓ Check: An assembled drawbored joint cannot be pulled apart or rocked by hand, and the shoulder shows no gap.

4 · Build a shaving horse and a pole lathe

The shaving horse is a bench with a foot-operated clamp that holds work for a drawknife, leaving both hands free — the first workholding device, and it doubles output.

The pole lathe: a springy sapling pole 3–4 m long — ash or hazel — fixed above the lathe, a cord from its tip wrapped 2–3 turns round the work, down to a foot treadle. Press the treadle and the work spins toward you and you cut; release and the pole pulls it back. Tool rest close to the work, centres driven into the ends of the blank. See the pole lathe.

✓ Check: The lathe turns a 5 cm-diameter blank into a round cylinder whose diameter varies by less than 1 mm along a 20 cm length.

5 · Cut gears with a dividing plate, as large as you can make it

Gear teeth cut by eye bind and wear, and the machine fails. A dividing plate — a disc with rings of equally spaced holes and a pin — indexes the work round by exact fractions.

Make the plate large — 30 cm or more across. Any error in spacing the holes is scaled down in proportion on a smaller gear cut from it. Space holes by stepping round with dividers, adjusting until the last step lands exactly on the first, and choose hole counts with many factors — 60, 72, 96 — so one ring cuts many gears. This is your first encounter with the precision problem: the plate limits every machine you build from it.

✓ Check: A pair of gears cut from the plate runs through a full revolution without binding or a tight spot, and the plate's hole count is marked on it.

6 · Cut wooden screws for presses and clamps

A wooden screw turns rotation into enormous pressure — cider and oil presses, bench vices, clamps, and later the printing press.

Use close-grained hardwood — beech, boxwood, fruitwood — dry and knot-free. Lay out the thread with a paper strip wound helically round the blank, marking a constant pitch; cut and file along the line. Cut the matching internal thread with a tap made from the same pattern. Wax both. Coarse threads are stronger in wood than fine ones.

✓ Check: The screw runs through its nut the full length without binding, and holds under a full-body lean on the lever without stripping.

7 · Build the machines that unlock other steps

The pole lathe is the start, not the goal. In order of what they unlock:

Build each to drawings with written dimensions, so the second one is a copy rather than a second guess.

✓ Check: At least one machine that another step depends on has been built from written dimensions, and a second copy has been made from the same drawing.

8 · Coppice the woodlot for a supply that never ends

Many broadleaf species regrow vigorously from a cut stump, giving straight poles on a cycle — hazel about every 7–10 years, sweet chestnut about 12–20, oak and ash 20 years or more depending on the pole size wanted.

Cut in winter, while dormant, low and at an angle so water runs off the stool. Divide the woodlot into as many plots as the rotation has years and cut one per year, so every year's supply is the same. Keep deer and livestock out for the first 2–3 years — browsing the new shoots kills the stool.

✓ Check: The woodlot is divided into numbered plots, one is cut each winter, and last year's cut stools are regrowing unbrowsed.

How this fails

Building with unseasoned timber.
Sawing across the grain for things that need to bend or take shock.
Cutting gear teeth by eye, giving a machine that binds and wears.
Cutting the whole woodlot instead of coppicing it.

How you know it worked

VerificationYou have a working pole lathe, and a set of pegged joints that has survived a season of use without loosening.